Type of Travel: Mother/Daughter

Time of Year: Summer, end of July 2024

We had a whirlwind 45 hours in Budapest; classic “we’ll be in Croatia so might as well go somewhere else nearby in Europe”. This was my second time in Budapest, the first was in 2016 for the holiday markets (magical - highly recommend!), and this trip was more about Mum experiencing this amazing city. We took a relaxed pace exploring, did the hop-on-hop-off bus (don’t recommend), and a cruise down the Danube River. Sharing suggestions below of what we enjoyed, would recommend and repeat.

MUST DO:

Thermal Baths Protip: Visit upon landing/arriving in Budapest. This is the perfect way to soothe a sore body from travel. After dropping our bags at our hotel, we went straight to Szechenyi Thermal Bath. This is the largest and oldest thermal bath house (opened in 1913!) in Budapest (and monumental in Europe too). There’s quite a lot of thermal bath options throughout Budapest. However, for a first time visit, this gives all the experiences with multiple pools with varied temperatures, outdoors and indoors. There are 15 indoor and 3 outdoor baths, and also sauna and steam rooms. Also the building itself is just gorgeous and dreamy. I also visited in 2016; it was crowded but not uncomfortable. However, if you’re seeking something quiet and more private, one of the smaller thermal bath houses may be better. The warmth and minerals definitely rejuvenated us after traveling for nearly 19 hours, and helped combat jetlag. No matter when you visit, definitely include a trip to a thermal bath house in your plans.

EAT:

Meat. They love their game animals and fortunately we do too. There are an abundance of Michelin guide restaurants throughout the city, and quality eats are easy to come by. The other time I visited the food was outstanding as well. Normally I will scope out, plan and reserve restaurants in advance. However, traveling with Mum and gearing this trip more towards her speed and style, we agreed to ‘wing it’ and go with the flow, and find restaurants based on where we were in the city and when we were hungry. This is ‘risky’ imo and not always recommended. (‘risky’ as a foodie means that you could miss out on an excellent meal by choosing something subpar when hangry, the amount of time it can take to find something suitable, especially if you have dietary needs and for those who dining and food experiences are a key component of a trip, and not having a reservation means scrounging last minute and settling). But for this trip it actually worked great both days and we enjoyed 2 delicious meals at restaurants we picked on a whim and would recommend.

Post thermal bath soak and a long travel day, we went to Robinson Restaurant, located in City Park, which focuses on Mediterranean/Hungarian food. A short walk from Szechenyi, the space is gorgeous, with a large outside situated on City Park Lake. We wanted ease and substance, and this met the mark. The tapas plate was a satisfying starter. Mum raved about the breaded veal, while I enjoyed the burger - flavorful and tender. Both forms of potatoes - fries and parsley - were devoured. The Hungarian wine selection and pours were excellent as well. If you’re in this part of the city, we’d recommend. We were in a bliss bubble post thermal baths and pictures weren’t even a thought so no food photos to share:)

Bestia - we found this satisfying spot with a great shaded outdoor area after visiting St. Stephen’s Basilica and being on the go all day; it’s across the square from the Basilica. We were in that space, edging on hangry and at an awkward (4/5pm) hour, not quite dinner time in Europe. Based on google, the restaurant had high ratings and a full menu… so we decided to give it a go. We were pleased with our decision! Also Mediterranean/Hungarian food yet prepared with a modern twist. I had the lamb starter (Cevapi) and roasted vegetable side which complemented each other and provided a tasteful and satisfying meal. A large selection of organic Hungarian wines are offered as well which were the perfect complement. Yet, as I was in the moment, focusing on the food and not photos, there’s no photo memories to share:)

Coffee I grabbed an iced Americano to go from Horizont - Brunch and Coffee (note, iced and to go really aren’t a thing here, but we were short on time so couldn’t stay and sip). Rich and flavorful. I would go and sit in this cute spot if I went back. We were trying to go to the New York Cafe across the street, but both didn’t make a reservation and didn’t have time to wait (so be sure to make a ressi if wanting to go to the New York Cafe; we were going for the vibe and architecture).

Gelato Gelarto Rosa - it’s so good and popular there’s 2 on the same street near St. Stephen's; the larger had a line so we went elsewhere. Post dinner, we stopped at the smaller one, and even though I already had gelato, I couldn’t refuse. It was the first time I found vegan pistachio and let me tell you… dreamy, creamy and memorable. The vegan chocolate was a perfect complement and the beautiful, photo worthy presentation, simply a work of art.

VISIT/SEE:

St. Stephen’s Basilica: There are quite a few churches in Budapest but this was the only we visited inside. You must buy tickets across the street (which is what we did) or online. I am always in awe of the beauty of basilicas; religious buildings in general, but this was one of the most ornate and vast that I’ve visited. Mum marveled and enjoyed as well.

Buda Castle and Gardens: You could spent hours here. However, with the heat (90F) we walked around the front parts before deciding to move on as we weren’t finding much shade.

Central Market Hall: Worth a walkthrough. The building itself is gorgeous and if you appreciate both seeing and experiencing where locals shop for their produce and more, mixed with tourist trinkets, this is the place. If we were staying in Budapest longer I would have loaded up on the fruit; those peaches looked incredible.

A FEW OTHER INSIGHTS:

Budapest is a gorgeous and 'easy’ Euro city to navigate
It’s a super clean city. We didn’t see trash bags anywhere or trash on the streets. Also the buildings are well kept and clean
The water is drinkable from the tap (which for someone who drinks a lot of water, it was nice to not have to buy everywhere)
It’s a very walkable city (which is always a win). It’s not massive, there’s public transit, and uber (which are taxis)
English was spoken everywhere we went. Which makes traveling so much easier. I don’t expect English to be spoken when I travel (and I try to learn or know key phrases), but I am always appreciative when English is spoken as it does help make the experience and communication more clear, particularly when traveling with others and elders. And if you’re curious, English is widely spoken throughout Europe because it’s taught in schools typically beginning around 3rd grade/9 years old, and there is an emphasis placed on knowing English as it relates to schooling and job opportunities.
Eating for those with food sensitivities is less stressful and easier than some other places. Where we ate, menus were clearly marked with allergens and ingredients, not only gluten/wheat. For both diners and servers, clarifying ingredients on a menu is such a strong move - less questions, concerns and potential issues. From what I can tell, Europe takes food allergies and intolerances and health much more seriously than the U.S. and South America.

Intention for this trip:

Give Mum the type of Euro experience she wanted, which meant to let her make most of the decisions, letting go of my need to plan everything and trust that we experienced exactly what we were to. And I can always go back:)

WHAT SPARKED JOY ON THIS JOURNEY?

~ Thermal baths - love a good soak and post travel, it was the perfect way to rejuvenate and feel bliss.

~ Strolling through the streets and simply seeing the architecture. The buildings are gorgeous and well maintained. I could spend all day wandering. I find it easy to be both mindful and present while casually walking through cities. There’s an amazing combination of cleanliness and awe-inspiring buildings which are a blend of architectural styles; photos don’t do them justice, you should see for yourself:)